Our Eurasier puppy is getting aggressive in the evenings

Constanze2108
Constanze2108 Icon representing the flag French
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Hi everyone,

We’ve had our male Eurasier puppy for 12 days now, so he’s 10 weeks old, and we’ve been really struggling with him every evening for the last few days.

I should mention that at the start, the breeder told us to keep him in a 3ft crate at night and for 2 hours after his meals. But since he was barking his head off every night, and I was worried about whether he could actually hold it in all night, I eventually started taking him out every 3 hours or so. I figured he just couldn't hold his bladder. But as soon as I put him back in the crate, it was the same thing again—barking for at least 10 minutes. We finally reached breaking point with the crate when he started barking every 2 hours. We couldn't just ignore him like the breeder suggested, especially since he was covered in pee by the morning. I called a dog trainer who told me to ditch the crate (she’s not a fan, I should add) as it seemed to be stressing him out. She suggested starting from scratch: letting him sleep in the living room (he prefers the floor tiles to his bed) and sleeping in the room with him for a week to reassure him. We’ve done that and he’s lovely; he doesn't even wake up during the night and manages to hold it from 11pm until 6am.

But here’s the problem: for several evenings now, after his dinner and a quick toilet walk, Cosmo gets really hyper once we’re back inside. He jumps on us, on the sofa, and bites us quite hard. Nothing works: not saying ‘no’ (which I don't think he understands anyway), not trying to redirect him with a toy, nor ignoring him (which is hard because he goes for your feet and calves). Even leaving the room doesn't work, as he just starts again the moment we come back. We’ve tried putting him in the downstairs loo (since we’re not using the crate anymore), but he just goes right back to it as soon as he’s out. We’re at our wits' end, and my husband and daughter are actually starting to get scared of him because he’s so persistent with the biting. We read that we should tire him out, but since these ‘episodes’ happen right after his meal, we’re worried about the risk of bloat. Other than that, we take him out regularly during the day for toilet breaks, plus two longer walks in the morning and late afternoon around the block (about 20 minutes each time, at his own pace).

So, that’s the situation. We really need your advice because we’re struggling to cope. This is our first dog so we’re not used to this, and with the lockdown, there are no puppy classes or home visits from trainers available...

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  • ?
    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    👍

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    ?
    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    Great news! ;-)

    It’s definitely true that having the whole family (kids included) cooped up at home creates quite a lot of excitement around such a young pup...

    Anyway, it’s really positive that you’ve found an approach that works for you and that you feel comfortable with. That way, you’re not constantly second-guessing yourselves, and the dog will definitely pick up on that too :-)

    Brilliant that this helped you discover calming signals; that’ll come in handy in so many situations in the long run.

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    Constanze2108
    Constanze2108 Icon representing the flag French
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    Hi everyone! I followed your advice and looked up "dog calming signals" online. We’ve learned so much as a family. Thanks for the tip! Regarding the nipping and biting, your comments about "pinning him down" really got me thinking. Since the vet also suggested the "water pistol" trick, we gave it a go two days ago when we were on the sofa and he started "attacking" us (poor choice of words, as I could clearly see from his posture it was just "play" for him). Well, the effect was instant; Cosmo stopped biting immediately after just one squirt. Since then, we’ve been giving him a firm "no" every time he starts nipping again, and if he doesn't stop, he gets a quick spray. Today, we’ve hardly had to use the spray at all because the "no" is starting to be enough on its own. As for the evening "zoomies", since we started using the spray, it’s turned more into him "running around like a mad thing" instead of going for us. However, he has started testing the waters by chewing "forbidden objects" instead. So, we tell him "no, leave it", and if he lets go, we give him plenty of praise. If we really can't distract him with another toy (he’s very stubborn!), he gets a little squirt, but that’s rare now. I’m also wondering if the fact that the three of us were on holiday and around him much more all day might have overstimulated him. Today, my husband started working from home again and I also worked in the living room this afternoon; he was much calmer and slept a lot more too. I’ve also been taking him to more varied places (mind you, the car still isn't really his thing...), and honestly, there’s a marked improvement in his behaviour, especially with our daughter. The atmosphere at home is much more peaceful now! Thanks again, everyone.
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    ?
    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    Regarding cuddles, I was mainly asking whether you call him over for them or if you let him come to you for affection. It sounds like it’s neither, because otherwise he bites you; it seems you're mostly going up to him when he’s calm and on the floor to give him a fuss. I’m not sure that’s the best way to communicate (especially if it’s always like that). If your cuddles only happen when he’s tired, maybe it’s at a time when he’d rather just sleep or settle down in peace? I can't say for certain, but in my opinion, when he bites, he’s trying to communicate with you. I don't think it's a good idea to always shut down his communication just because he’s hurting you; he doesn't actually realise he’s doing something "wrong". He just picks up on your total refusal to interact without understanding that the nipping is the specific problem. He probably doesn't understand why he’s being isolated for so long, either. I think that could be really stressful for him. In my view, you should accept his approaches—not every single time, but sometimes—so that he feels listened to, and so that he’s rewarded for taking the initiative. That’s important. You should also be calling him over for cuddles sometimes, rather than just waiting for him to come to you. As for the nipping, you mentioned that a loud "ouch!" doesn’t work? If that’s the case, it’s quite surprising; in my experience, it should work almost every time. I know that it can be done wrong (either it’s not loud enough, the timing is off, or it’s overacted to the point where the dog thinks it’s a game and bites even harder; or maybe the "ouch" isn't convincing enough and the dog hasn't grasped that he's causing pain. Or, perhaps the dog isn't used to or encouraged to listen to his humans, so he isn't in a state to hear anything, especially if he’s very overexcited or feeling high levels of stress). If that's the case, the lesson doesn't sink in. Could that be what's happening? I’m not sure. Regarding his sleeping area, it’s fine if he doesn’t want a bed, but don’t let him sleep absolutely everywhere. Designate a spot for him, or maybe two, but don’t let him choose for himself, and certainly not fifty different places. You’ll find loads of videos on YouTube about teaching a puppy to go to their bed and stay there, usually with the help of some treats.
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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    Also, when you're in the garden or out and about, get him to sit next to you. Keep a hold of him as he's still a bit too small to manage a proper 'stay'. Throw a toy while holding onto your pup, and once it hits the ground, give him the green light and race him for it – see who can grab it first. For now, make sure the toy is big enough so he doesn't accidentally nip your hand if you both reach for it at the same time.

    As the days and games go by, you can start introducing more concepts depending on how he’s coping. Adapt to his pace, but get him used to communicating with you every day through games like these. Work on getting him to focus on you and what you’re saying; he needs to understand that you have real expectations. He should gradually learn to make an effort to understand you, which will make future training much easier. And of course, give him plenty of praise for every little success, as naturally as possible.

    Regarding walks, I’d suggest three or four 20-minute outings a day, rather than two 30-minute ones (plus extra toilet breaks if needed, depending on how he's doing). Make these walks full of new smells and stimuli (everyday noises, scents, and so on). Once lockdown is over, you’ll need to let him meet up with some furry friends as often as possible so they can actually play together, rather than just passing each other on the street. It’ll do wonders for his physical health and his emotional well-being.

    Being a bit lax with commands? I’d definitely avoid that. There’s no point trying to teach him loads of different things at once; it’s better to focus on the essentials but be quite firm about him getting them right. Obviously, there’ll be a few slip-ups while he’s still learning, but don’t give up.

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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    ‘Playing every time he’s awake’ – when you put it like that, it sounds like quite a lot...

    Generally speaking, you should try to have a bit of a routine for everything that shapes his day (meals, play, training, walks – keep an eye on the timing and duration). This gives your puppy some structure and makes him feel more secure, rather than, say, playing anywhere and at any time. If you're doing it 10 times one day and only twice the next, it’s not ideal (I'm just guessing here, I don’t know how you’re currently doing things).

    For really high-energy games, it’s best to do them outdoors if you have a garden, so he gradually learns that he needs to be calmer when he's inside.

    As for playing fetch, I’d say be careful with how you play, especially if he tends to get overexcited easily anyway.

    Same goes for tug-of-war. Since he’s already nipping you quite a bit, I’d put that on hold for now (the actual pulling, anyway – he can still chew on his soft toys or ropes as long as you aren’t tugging on them yourself).

    I’d also avoid having him chase you, so he doesn't get the idea that chasing people is okay.

    I’m not familiar with the water bottle and rice thing, but snuffle mats are great! They make him use his nose, which provides a 'healthy' kind of tiredness. You can use it for his meals too, not just for a few treats.

    You can run around to encourage him to burn off energy *with* you (rather than *at* you).

    For example, in the garden (or somewhere else outside), have someone hold your pup while you run off in front of him to find a spot to hide one of his toys. Then, let him find it while you encourage him, either standing still or walking alongside him.

    He might be a bit young to fully get it yet, but you can start at home by having him sit in front of or next to you. Hold him and hide a toy where he can see you do it, nearby (less than a metre or two away). Then, get him to find it straight away. Help him if needed, using commands (like "find it!") or hand signals to guide him. Bit by bit, he’ll understand what "find it" means and you can make the game more challenging by hiding it further away or helping him less. Always keep encouraging him so he feels you’re involved; he needs to understand he's playing *with* you, not just by himself. It’ll do wonders for your bond.

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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    @Constanze, yes, licking is also a sign (the puppy doesn't necessarily have to "whimper" like your vet says).

    He might lick you, lick his own nose, yawn, turn away, or simply go into active submission... A puppy will also often scratch or shake himself off when he’s had a bit of an intense experience.

    All of this needs to be taken into account.

    The "iron fist in a velvet glove" approach is the most overused cliché in history (constantly parroted on breeders' pages, regardless of the breed), so it's true that the meaning sometimes gets lost... But essentially, it's just about being steady and consistent, which is important for any dog, for that matter.

    There isn't a single "breed" of dog that should be raised with inconsistency or brutality...

    So obviously, you have to follow through and see your request to the end. But even before reinforcing all that, you have to show the puppy what the command actually means by motivating and guiding him.

    At 3 months old, he has everything to learn.

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    Emla
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    I agree with what's been said.

    To me, an "iron fist in a velvet glove" mostly means consistency and conviction without any aggression or getting frustrated.

    Take the sofa, for example. Here, they are allowed up with me for a cuddle (they’re adults and already trained, I should point out). However, they aren't allowed on the sofa by themselves. So, when I'm on the sofa, they come and stand in front of me with "that look", and I'll say "okay, come and have a cuddle", but the second I get up—even if it's just for five minutes—they get down. They aren't allowed to be on the sofa alone; it’s not for sleeping! If they want a proper snooze, they have their own beds. The consistency is in the fact that the sofa is for cuddles, we don't stay there on our own.

    I have hunting dogs who are, by definition, very stubborn and persistent, so yes, during their training I’ve had to be more headstrong than them. But that just means I've repeated, repeated and repeated the rules every single day until they were fully understood.

    Right now, I’m still working on one thing with my latest rescue. He knows "sit" (no problem at all in front of his food bowl or for a treat), but there’s one "sit" he just hasn't grasped: the one to have his lead taken off once we get to the walk. You might think it’s pointless, but it helps me keep them calm and check there’s no danger around before letting them off. They’re hunting breeds, so as soon as they’re off-lead in the woods, they’re all over the place 🤣. Anyway, that specific "sit" isn’t automatic yet, so I still spend a few minutes on it at the start of every walk with treats and toys. I don't give in; he doesn't start his walk until he's put his bum on the ground for at least two seconds.

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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    Constanze, I’d be inclined to say whether it’s an Eurasier, a Spitz, or a primitive type, don’t let yourself be swayed too much by labels.

    Be careful not to spend too much time searching the web for "secret" or "fail-safe" training methods; it’s a bit like those armchair experts who think they know everything about viruses because they’ve read a couple of posts on Facebook.

    During the lockdown, try to stay consistent, calm, and patient, keeping in mind that this pup still has everything to learn. You can always get in touch with a good dog trainer once lockdown is over if you feel the need.

    Of course, other members here will be able to give you advice, but honestly, trying an "alpha roll" on a puppy without a proper understanding of dog body language is really asking for trouble.

    Best of luck.

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    Kikaah
    Kikaah Icon representing the flag French
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    If the dog doesn't sit when asked, either he doesn't know the command (so double-check he actually knows it) or he just doesn't see the point in obeying (it's raining and he doesn't want to get his bum on the wet ground, he wants to go and play... he already did it 10 minutes ago and isn't a fan of repetition, which is quite common with this type of dog). If he’s really reached the point where he couldn't care less about commands, don't force the issue if it’s not worth it. Instead, give him an easier task so you can end on a positive note (to keep him keen for next time). "An iron fist in a velvet glove" means being firm but gentle. Firmness means sticking to your guns—yes means yes, and no means no (if the sofa is off-limits today, it stays off-limits tomorrow). The gentleness is to ensure he doesn't lose trust in you (no shouting, no using physical force...). Should you train him like a Northern breed? A primitive type? Something else? Just train him like a dog for a start and don't overcomplicate things ^^ All dogs should be trained the same way—as dogs—with consistency and steadiness. There isn't one specific "method" that works for everyone; you have to find a balance between the dog's personality, their breed, their individual quirks, and what you expect from them. The key is to find what works for your dog while respecting their temperament and nature.
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