How can I reduce my dog's reactivity towards other entire males?

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Willko Icon representing the flag French
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Hi everyone, Neels is an Australian Shepherd who is now 10 months old. Everything was going really well from the moment we got him (at 8 weeks old from a breeder); Neels saw quite a few dogs, but unfortunately mostly young ones (who weren't necessarily well-socialised), so I think he picked up some slightly rough habits. He’s never been mean, though—just a real bundle of energy.

This carried on until he was about 7 or 8 months old, when an unneutered male Boxer who wasn't part of his usual playgroup tried to mount him and a scrap broke out. The fight wasn't anything major; we stepped in pretty quickly and I thought that was the end of it. However, it seems that since that day, Neels picks fights with entire males (except for one, his childhood friend). I've sought advice here and there and we decided to bring forward the date for him to be neutered (we’d already decided to have him "done" eventually). So, Neels was neutered 10 days ago.

I'm not pinning all my hopes on the operation; I'm also seeing a behaviourist at the same time to work on the aggression issues towards other males.

I'm posting today partly to hear from people who have been through something similar (targeted male aggression and the effects of neutering). I've looked everywhere and the subject comes up often, but without any real conclusion on how things turned out. I also wanted to share my own story and try to keep a bit of a diary to help any future owners facing the same problem by showing how mine progresses, if that’s of interest.

In any case, if you have any feedback or experiences to share, I'd love to hear them as this situation is making me quite sad. Off-lead walks are more complicated now, so for the time being, we're 100% on a long line.

Thanks for reading and I hope to get some replies.

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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    Willko,

    I think you're absolutely right, and it’s a no-brainer that any responsible owner should be ready to recall or get hold of their dog during an encounter. I honestly don't see why anyone would find that shocking.

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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    @Ulysse46

    You’re right, Neels was definitely over-correcting. He starts by growling, but at the moment, growling isn't doing the trick (either the other dog doesn't take the hint or the owner doesn't step in quickly enough), so Neels ends up kicking off. Usually, I try to call Neels back, but by then I’ve usually lost his focus completely.

    "Neels pas à en mode bagarre?" Not in fight mode? Goes into fight mode? I’m not sure I follow what you meant there.

    Personally, I think it’s totally counter-productive to let your dog approach another—or vice-versa (sometimes they surprise you, fair enough)—and then, the second you start doubting or panicking, you try to recall your dog. I reckon that’s the best way to make the dog think there’s a problem (especially if your voice is full of anxiety and you're sounding desperate). Depending on how the "chat" with the other dog is going, he might decide to get stuck in rather than come back to you.

    Or, if at least half of these meetings end in a rushed recall, the cumulative effect—without enough positive interactions to balance it out—could make the dog think, "Blimey, meeting other dogs isn't fun, it's actually a right pain."

    In my opinion, you either have to trust your dog completely (if his body language suggests you can, obviously) and accept the risks that come with it. I'd say the risk is tiny because, yeah, there’s no such thing as zero risk... but what kind of life is it if you’re always shielding yourself from everything or constantly on edge?

    I personally think it’s a great way for them to broaden and develop their communication skills.

    Plus, I’d much rather have a dog that can manage his own interactions instead of me constantly hovering over him.

    Mind you, it’s not about just leaving him to fend for himself; there are plenty of things you can do to help him become more independent.

    Either you don't trust your dog and you guide him, letting him make mistakes so you can correct them (meaning he shouldn't get too out of hand and should learn from it)...

    Or you just stop him from meeting other dogs altogether...

    But letting him go in with your fingers crossed hoping for the best, or panic-calling him back once they’ve already started interacting—I honestly don't get that logic.

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    Willko Icon representing the flag French
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    Hello,

    @Ulysse46

    You're right, Neels was definitely over-correcting. He starts by growling, but for now, the growls aren't enough (the other dog doesn't stop and/or the owner doesn't have time to stop their dog), so Neels goes into scrap mode. What I usually do is try to recall Neels, but by that point, I often can't get through to him.

    @Boxy I really like your approach of body blocking; I just need to have the presence of mind to do it, but I’ll definitely keep it in mind. It's a very interesting suggestion, thank you, I'll try to put it into practice.

    Regarding the work with the trainer, in case it's of interest or helps anyone:

    1/ Recall in all situations and walking to heel => e.g. when Neels is off-lead and we meet an unfriendly dog on a lead.

    2/ Off-lead encounters: the work has mainly been on me lol!

    - I (the owner) mustn't stare at the "obstacle" => no freezing up/no putting him back on the lead (which is really, really hard). Often, I was the trigger.

    3/ Reading body language: checking that the dogs approach each other properly to have a sniff, rather than head-on. It's a good sign if he lies down beforehand.

    I should also mention that these points were given to me after an assessment session with Neels, so they might not necessarily be a universal truth. The trainer was talking specifically about the situation with Neels and me.

    I hope this update is helpful; let me know if you need anything else. Anyway, thanks for taking an interest in my stories. What a great community!

    👌

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    Boxy Icon representing the flag French
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    Hi Willko

    I’ve had a quick skim through the previous pages and there’s definitely some progress with Neels, well done! Happy 2nd birthday to him too! 🎉🎂

    Could you tell us a bit more about what you did with the trainer? (A bit more than just the meets with calm dogs and random dogs, the "non-events"...) I’m just curious about the body language, cues, positioning, equipment and that sort of thing... Whatever you’ve been doing seems to have worked wonders and it might be really helpful for others to hear about.

    Well done on managing your own stress as well!

    Was that something you worked on specifically, or did your stress levels just come down naturally as you saw things improving?

    It's brilliant that Neels isn't reacting like he used to!

    Regarding him reacting to "provocations", I’d suggest stepping in (as Docline mentioned, "acting as a shield" or body blocking). And if Neels tries to escalate things, tell him to "leave it", "no", or "steady" (whatever your usual command is to get him to stop and settle).

    The other owner might not react, or might react too late (they can’t anticipate Neels' reaction the way you can).

    By dealing with the other dog yourself, it shows Neels he doesn't need to get worked up. Telling him to "leave it" at the same time helps nip that rising energy in the bud—it defuses things instantly and he’ll get into the habit of calming down quickly and letting you handle it. Eventually, he won't get so wound up to begin with.

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    Willko Icon representing the flag French
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    Thanks for the replies,

    @Docline, my dog is often out in front. He’s actually got very good recall, but I don’t want to make a big deal out of every encounter by calling him back. I’ve opted for the "every encounter is a non-event" strategy instead. It’s actually something the trainer worked on with me more than anything, to help me manage my own stress.

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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    Hi Ulysse46, thanks for getting back to me. What we’ve done so far is work on socialising him with well-balanced dogs first, and then moving on to meeting random dogs out and about. I think Neels has realised that there’s actually no danger from other dogs—you just say hello and that’s that. He doesn't react anymore; by which I mean he’s no longer the one starting it. In this case, the situation feels different to me because it’s the other dog doing something "objectionable" to him. The trainer told me that, logically, it’s up to the owner of the "pushy" dog to keep them in check before they start acting out of line. So yes, there is a common link like you mentioned, but the root cause isn't the same anymore, and above all, Neels and I can't control how other dogs behave, can we? Does that make my point of view a bit clearer? I’d assumed that if you were asking for tips, it was because he was probably being a bit excessive. I figured that if he was correcting other dogs appropriately, you wouldn’t have felt the need to ask for advice, seeing as he’d be handling things fine on his own. So, I’m not entirely sure I follow ^^ are you looking to handle things better, or do you want to step in even though he’s already doing the right thing? Ideally, if a dog is really overstepping (the one coming up to you, for example), it should be up to their owner to intervene. Again, if they’re being over the top or just plain rude from the start—meaning the dog doesn’t even bother introducing themselves and goes straight to mounting yours, or catches him off guard from behind, or even if yours gets mounted while you have him on a lead... it’s the owner’s job to correct their dog. But some people just let it happen or step in too late, which can cause yours to get wound up... again, if there’s a real lack of manners. If yours can’t stand being mounted (which is one thing) but reacts very quickly and very aggressively, starting a fight right away, then I think there might be some things to work on from your side. Anyway, I’m not quite sure where you stand with it all. It sounds like he’s managing okay for the most part, but I don’t really understand why you're looking for tips in that case—that’s the bit that confused me! :)
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    Flip-Cockwood
    Flip-cockwood Icon representing the flag French
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    Willko, my dog stands his ground quite easily if he’s mounted at his age. But when he was younger, if the owner let their dog get away with it, I’d step in myself. Your trainer is right. It’s up to the owner to manage their dog. If it happens, you intervene, and if it becomes a common occurrence, you have to anticipate it...

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    Docline
    Docline Icon representing the flag French
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    Where does your dog walk in relation to you when you’re out on a walk?

    If you have a tricky encounter, it’s actually quite easy to teach an Aussie to get behind their owner—it’s up to you to act as a shield.

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    W
    Willko Icon representing the flag French
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    Hi @Ulysse46, thanks for getting back to me.

    What we've done so far is socialisation work, starting with well-balanced dogs and then moving on to random dogs we meet out and about. I think Neels has realised that there's actually no danger with other dogs; you just say hello and that’s it. He doesn't react anymore—what I mean is, he’s no longer the one starting it.

    Now, I feel the situation is different because it’s the other dog doing something "out of line" to him. The trainer told me that, logically, it’s up to the owner of the "pushy" dog to keep them in check before they start acting inappropriately.

    So yes, there’s a common link like you said, but the root cause isn't the same anymore—and more importantly, Neels and I can't control how other dogs behave, can we?

    Does that make my point of view a bit clearer?

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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    Unprovoked attacks are definitely excessive. But if he’s just as over the top when he’s pushing back while being ridden... I see a common thread there, and that’s what’s making me wonder... why or how he would have learned to gauge his response in one situation but not the other.
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