Cat can't groom her backend anymore

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Babhy Icon representing the flag French
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Hi everyone.

I’d like to share a problem I'm having with my 11-year-old cat.

My precious Neige is a cat who had kittens when she was very young. I didn't even notice or hear (especially that!) that she was in heat for the first time—she's my first female cat. Since she had her litter, she's put on a huge amount of weight around her tummy. I’ve tried loads of different foods recommended by vets, but nothing has worked. I even split her portions, but still no change. Ever since I got her at 9 weeks old, she’s regularly had bright red blood in her stools.

For a year now, she’s been unable to groom her backend. She jumps out of the litter tray before she’s finished, whether she’s having a wee or a poo.

She twists and wriggles around trying to clean herself but just can't reach.

She’s got these 'fatty lumps' near her anus (this is a recent thing, since she stopped being able to groom herself).

I took her to the vet, who gave me some treatments to gently wash and disinfect her backend after shaving the fur around there, as it's quite long.

However, it’s painful for her; she used to more or less let me do it, but now it’s becoming impossible—she hisses, spits and struggles.

She’s hiding all the time now. If I see her on her way to or from the tray, she seems scared of me (is it because of the cleaning?).

Her condition isn't getting any better; it’s actually getting worse. I’m at my wits' end. Does anyone have any ideas?

Just so you know, nothing I’ve tried to help her lose weight has ever worked. And this past year, even on half her daily rations, she’s actually put on about 2 lbs (1kg)! I just don't understand it. If anyone has any ideas, solutions, or anything at all, thank you. BABHY

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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    There is primarily one school of thought: the veterinary one, which is driven by major pet food brands like Royal Canin, Hill’s, and Pro Plan—the very ones you’ll find on the shelves of their "surgery-cum-shops". No vet is actually trained in BARF; their courses are delivered by nutrition experts from the pet food industry. They are, by definition, the last people who would ever acknowledge any quality in anything other than dry food. Each of these partner brands gives vet surgeries the scripts to follow when dealing with people who might be interested in BARF. Half of all vet consultations (for cats and dogs) are linked to dietary issues, yet BARF remains very much on the fringes, so why would they change a thing... What led me to BARF was the fact that I could never find out what those commercial foods were actually made of. I have serious doubts, but the more I looked into it, the more I ran into a total wall of silence. I’m not claiming that BARF is the perfect solution, but it is the only way I’ve found to know exactly what I’m feeding my cats. I try to provide quality, but I might be wrong; it isn't necessarily a guarantee of good health. (Don’t get me wrong: a cat hunts and eats at dawn and dusk because their eyesight is built for it, giving them an edge over their prey. It’s not about gorging on big game, but a series of small prey like rodents or birds.) Best regards
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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    Regarding the "free-feeding" debate, there are clearly two schools of thought. Yours, and the other side which believes that leaving food out all the time prevents the cat from getting frustrated, as they’ll usually self-regulate, with a few exceptions.

    In the wild, as you know better than I do, cats will eat small, frequent meals throughout the day. It’s not two big kills morning and night.

    My cats aren’t obese; two of them are a bit on the chunky side, but they have outdoor access so they still get plenty of exercise. A cat that puts on weight is one that can’t self-regulate and/or eats out of boredom. I’m keen for them to maintain a healthy weight to avoid any secondary health issues, but I also adapt to their individual needs.

    In my experience, an all-wet food diet led to this: too long a gap between meals meant they got hungry and ended up vomiting bile in the morning because of an empty stomach. After trying a few things, I’ve settled on wet food morning and night, plus a small bowl of dry food in individual portions for each cat, just to keep the greedy ones in check.

    Does a BARF diet keep them fuller for longer? Possibly, but I don't do it and don't intend to. It feels a bit like a "revolutionary" new trend where we don't know enough about the long-term benefits or risks. Besides, it’s a practice that requires expert knowledge of feline nutrition; not everyone shares your passion, and switching to raw feeding can do more harm than good (vets are already starting to see the consequences in their surgeries).

    Look, if it’s working well for you, that’s great, but we shouldn't generalise. Everyone does their best based on their own cats' needs.

    If this lady’s cat prefers dry food, there are other ways to help her lose weight—weight-management kibble, puzzle feeders, and so on.

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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    @Norpenna

    The idea that cats need to graze all day is a complete myth created by the pet food industry. It’s somewhat justified because dry food takes a very long time to digest, so eating small amounts is less of a strain on the system, but it means the cat is constantly digesting. It’s just conditioning that everyone goes along with, and then you end up feeling guilty, like you do, because you’re out of the house.

    Free-feeding is the absolute enemy of the overweight cat. If a cat is obese, it’s precisely because they have food available to them 24/7. They aren’t like cows, chickens, or pigs that eat non-stop; they are carnivores.

    Any vet will tell you to restrict their portions, but then your overweight cat will just scoff everything at once and start pestering you for more the moment you get back, which can drive you mad. If you leave enough out, they’ll leave you alone, but they’ll stay obese...

    Wet food should be given once in the morning and once in the evening, and if you want to offer a third meal, you can give them a little more later on. But a cat really doesn’t need to have food available all the time.

    My cats (even though they are on a raw diet, it’s the same principle) eat once at 7 am and then again around 8.30 pm—basically every 12 hours—and the rest of the time they don’t beg or hang around their bowls every five minutes.

    My advice on grain-free wet food for a cat that is already overweight is that there are numerous benefits:

    It isn’t left out for free-feeding

    The cat feels full much quicker

    Digestion time is much shorter

    There are no carbs

    Hydration is optimal

    Portion control is much easier

    A quarter of the calories

    Much higher nutritional quality...

    For context, on their raw diet, my cats only have two meals a day. The daily amount is constant, but sometimes they leave some or even skip a meal entirely for a few days...

    They actually eat less when the temperature rises (they have access outside via the balcony), so the summer rations are a bit lighter than the winter ones.

    Best regards

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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    Hi there, Regarding the weight issue alone, not all cats are created equal – it’s a bit like us humans, really. In my case, I’ve got two "sturdy" ones and one slim one, even though they all get the same food. I also prefer grain-free (and sugar-free) wet food morning and evening, but a 100% wet food diet doesn't really fit my lifestyle as I’m sometimes out of the house from 7 am until 7 pm. So, I’ve gone back to including dry food. I’ve had good results with Orijen "Fit and Trim" for overweight cats, but the kibble is tiny, the bag is very pricey and it doesn't last long enough. At the moment, I’m trying out Nutrivet Sterilised; they have good reviews, are more affordable, and are ranked "top-tier" in some dry food charts. They’re the only grain-free, high-quality weight-loss dry foods I know of; the rest are brands like Royal Canin and the like, which are best avoided.
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    Docline
    Docline Icon representing the flag French
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    I have two spayed female cats, and neither of them is overweight. My Norwegian Forest Cat has a massive appetite. I mainly feed her wet food, giving her tiny portions several times a day. On top of that, she regularly scoffs down half a field mouse or whatever else she’s caught, plus any bits and bobs she’s managed to beg for while we’re eating. She’s a total glutton, yet she’s still a bit on the small side for her breed.

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    Daki
    Daki Icon representing the flag French
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    Hi there, I’d get a second opinion from a vet before changing her diet completely, even if it’s to improve the quality (she’s 11 and already has a sensitive stomach, so you need to take things slowly). We don’t know what’s wrong with her yet, but there’s definitely an issue: blood in her stools, fatty lumps around her anus, pain, and abnormal weight. Has she had any tests done yet?
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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    Hi there, Cats aren’t really stubborn; it’s just that manufacturers add flavour enhancers to dry food to get cats to eat it. Without those additives, cats wouldn’t even touch the stuff. To encourage them to try wet food, you can crush some of their dry food into a powder and sprinkle it over the top of the wet food. Regarding portion sizes, it depends on the wet food you choose and its calorie count per kg. You should try to weigh your cats more accurately; if they’re on a diet, aim for about 14 to 18 calories per lb (30 to 40 calories per kg) of body weight per day. Best regards
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    Babhy Icon representing the flag French
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    Hi, thanks for your advice. Ever since they arrived, I’ve wanted to feed them wet food, but unfortunately, they weren’t having any of it. And they are very stubborn cats, believe me! Normally, as they are quite leggy and long, they should weigh a maximum of about 13 lbs as adults. My girl should really be at least 4.5 lbs lighter. And since females are usually slightly smaller than males, maybe even 12 lbs. What sort of portions would you recommend (if I can actually get them to accept wet food)?

    Many thanks for your reply.

    However, I’m still wondering why the female put on weight at such a young age, while the male is at a healthy weight? Do you have any ideas? Thanks for everything.

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    Anonymous user Icon representing the flag French
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    Hi Babhy

    Vets are absolutely useless when it comes to nutrition; their advice is only fit for the bin.

    Behind those white coats, they’re mostly just dry food salesmen working for the big corporations that funded their degrees, conferences, and practices. Sadly, it’s the pets who pay the price for this money-spinning racket—the same pets you then take back to them for treatment (the irony!).

    Switch your cat to an exclusively wet food diet, grain-free of course. What makes cats put on weight is the ridiculous amount of carbs found in this industrial food, which is made of cheap scraps and fillers then sold at a premium.

    In the wild, cats don’t eat carbs; their bodies synthesise them if needed.

    Wet food is much more filling than dry food and better meets their nutritional needs. It stops them from gorging on dry food and those useless carbs that just turn into fat.

    Steer clear of vet-recommended or supermarket brands. On sites like Zooplus, you can find grain-free wet food brands like Animonda Carny, Feringa, Mac’s, or Catz Finefood. They offer decent value for money and are far better suited to what a cat actually needs.

    During the transition, you might want to try a course of probiotics (like Fortiflora) to reduce the risk of diarrhoea.

    If you need help working out the daily portions, let me know his current weight and what his target weight should be (roughly, in lbs or stones and lbs).

    Best regards

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